Car Nicobar Island.. !
Daily waking up at 3.30 AM, first task after warming up followed by a dozen kms. run on the peripheral coastal road.
Sharp at 6 AM, driver Bhattacharya would faithfully turn up, unlock the garage, carry out a thorough check-up of official police jeep.He would review the position of fuel, functioning of radiator, feel the tire pressure, battery charging etc. This inspection lasted till 7 AM, thereafter he was free from myside till dawning of the next day, or until specially called for any specific task. He would devote complete day fishing and enjoying a long leisurely stint with his family. He was a stereotypical Bengali, having fervent obsession of eating fish and relishing outdoor adventure of an entertaining irresistible spell of fishing.
One thing about Bengalis is worth mentioning, they can identify the quality of fish from its size, shape, color, smell plus nature of its agile mobility.
I loved driving the jeep myself.
During early half of the day finished all my official work, including visiting offices of other government departments, depending on requirements.
Testing driving skill:
Another function of my work was as motor licencing officer (MLO), it involved issuing of driving licences and registration of motor vehicles etc.
The only driving test I used to take was reversing of vehicle, in an anti-clockwise direction, around large roundabout outside my office.Time remained fixed for light, medium and heavy vehicles, well calibrated by proficiently experienced Bhattacharya. Most of the aspirants happened to be the service personnel, although this driving test appeared simple, but few accomplished could qualify in the first attempt.
Afternoons were reserved for traversing coastal ring road of 126 square km. Car Nicobar Island. For about twenty days a month, remained engaged in outstation cruising tours to enchanting islands of picturesque archipelago, enriching myself with widespread glamorousness of nature.
Habitat and Heritage:
My local touring companion was a like minded friend S M Khan, district education officer (DEO), who hailed from Meerut, Uttar Pradesh.We used to enjoy this marvellous ride through the magnificent lush green jungle and tall stately coconut groves.
Occasionally a squealing pig would hastily rush across the road. While another one on hearing low drone of our petrol jeep, retreating back its swiftly drawn hoof-steps, sought refuge within the dry locales of thick undergrowth.
Besides Headquarters, the tribal Islanders lived in fifteen hamlets scattered on the fringes of this beautiful weather beaten Island. Fifty three km. of single metalled road along circumference of Car Nicobar was built by Japanese Imperial forces during occupation between Mar. 1942 to Sept. 1945.
The dedicated Japs dreaming of world conquest constructed a chain of strong coastal defences to repulse air and sea attacks by the determined allied forces. The ruins of these war relics of yesteryears, silently narrating the story of their masters, who were predestined to unceremoniously mingle into same earthly dust which they emanated.
We used to carry one 12 bore gun and a .22 Bruno rifle for shooting oversized wild pigeons, overflying the trees near Indian Air Force station.
Melody and Pigs:
During the approaching time of sunset the jungle resonated and reverberated with melodious sounds of different rhythmic drum beats. This was a signal for the domestic pigs, enjoying day’s outing in forest to return back home for having their evening meals. These tribesmen had set-up “machan” type platforms for feeding pigs with coconut kernel and water in huge clam shells placed on the ground below. These intelligent ceatures recognized distinct sound of drum beats played by their respective owners.
Alternatively we would take clockwise and anti-clockwise direction for enjoying the grand scenic fineries of nature from diverse angles. We admired the rich exquisite marvellous craftsmanship of Creator, who planned, sculpted and chiselled our earth, the azure seamless skies, the wonderful flora and fauna.
He solely embedded mother earth with innumerable multifarious vast priceless unparalleled treasures.
The Paris Hotel:
There was a small thatched hut at village Titop on the northwest side of this Island bearing a oversized board inscribing, “The Paris Hotel”.
We would invariably stop here for a cup of tea, having a good hearty laugh at the comic hyperbolic nomenclature.The choice of this grand name atop this miniscule kiosk at one of the most desolate places of our planet, illustrated the sophistications of its humble owner.
Halting at Arong village we visited tribal Captain Alfred’s house who happened to be my close friend, enjoying fresh healthy coconuts and sweet juicy papayas.
Enjoying geographical beauty :
We abundantly relished the mesmerizing spectacle of the dazzling sun sets, panaromic views of the sea, the magnificent mixing of an exquisite alluring seascape with elegantly enriched landscape.
The view of this Island from different variation of angles presented assorted aspects of splendour and grandeur of nature, like rapidly changing kaleidoscopic picturesque designs. The spectacle of same landscape experienced by different persons from the land, sea or air, triggered entirely dissimilar levels of appreciation and mental contentment.
True nature lovers alone can enjoy, living in such godforsaken desolate locations, even lacking common basic diversionary entertaining options.
(Author of the article is retired Deputy Commissioner of Police. Content is based on his experience during his posting in Andaman Nicobar Islands during 1982-85.)
